Let's assume that you've prepared the wall surfaces in your bathroom in readiness for your tiles and that you've accurately planned the layout so that you don't get narrow strips of tile in positions where they would be an irritating eyesore. If you haven't already done to help you read the very first 2 articles in this series which will help you to accomplish this: "Achieve Perfectly Tiled Walls by Preparing Your Surface Properly" and "Determining The Layout for your Bathroom Wall Tiles ".
So your wall surfaces are ready for tiling and you've marked your horizontal and vertical starting lines carefully on each wall and wall section. These are both crucial steps to have right if you would like your wall tiling to really have a professional and long-lasting finish so don't rush them.
You're now ready to start fixing your tiles to the bottom half the wall. The method is basically exactly the same if you are using porcelain tiles, ceramic wall tiles or any type of natural stone tile. carrelage mural salle de bain What will vary would be the kinds of tools and adhesives you may require and, in case of natural stone tiles, any sealant coating they could require. In case of all natural stone (and particularly limestone tiles) seal the tiles before installing them to prevent adhesive and grease from both hands marking the surface.
Spread your adhesive over a tiny area - the size you are able to tile ahead of the adhesive starts to dry. This might be an instance of trial and error for the very first few tiles but you will soon obtain the hang of it.
Position the very first tile immediately below your horizontal layout line and to at least one side of the vertical layout line on the largest portion of wall area in your room. Then continue tiling with whole tiles right down to the floor and then sideways to the corner of the area of other boundary like the bath, doorway etc. A good adhesive should support the tile set up relatively quickly and they shouldn't slip down but if you find the tile slipping substantially it might be a case of the wrong adhesive for the sort of wall tiles you've chosen or the sort of substrate on that the tiles are being fixed.
The absorbency of the substrate will affect how fast and easily the tile is held in place. For example, tiling over a painted surface will often take longer for the adhesive to carry the tile set up than tiling onto a far more absorbent surface such as for example plaster. Using too much adhesive can also cause a tile to slip down so check the recommended amount to utilize before starting.
To be able to achieve a professional finish ensure you use tile spacers for only spacing between each tile and also work with a spirit level to check you horizontal and vertical lines at regular intervals.
When you yourself have completed the low half the bathroom top of the half is generally easier because you now have a firmly established horizontal line all around the room. Just continue tiling upwards and across in exactly the same way as you did the low half the room.
Once you have positioned all whole tiles on a wall or wall section, then you definitely need to start cutting tiles to fill the gaps left between the complete tiles and the floor, ceiling, doorway or sanitary ware. Getting a good, clean cut is possibly the most difficult part of tiling. If you're installing ceramic tiles it's possible to score them and crack them along the score line but when you have chosen porcelain wall tiles you will be needing a top quality electric tile cutter. For thick porcelain tiles you will need a professional cutter but these may be hired, if necessary. Natural stone such as for example limestone or marble will need to be cut with a moist cutter to prevent the edges chipping.
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